African beauty brands are fast proliferating in the global beauty market. Whether they seek to appeal to either local or international markets, these brands are catering to consumer needs by blending traditional knowledge with scientific advancements, setting new trends in the global industry. Historically, African beauty practices have been deeply rooted in the use of natural ingredients, harnessing the properties of plants and natural indigenous resources to healthily maintain skin and hair. Beauty rituals often involved ingredients like shea butter, baobab oil, marula oil, and African Black soap, which were valued for their nourishing and healing properties. The processes and formulations were relatively simple, focusing more on immediate, practical applications rather than refined products suited for a broader market.

However, as consumer preferences continued to evolve, and globalization resulted in the interconnectedness of markets, the demand for scientifically backed and well-researched and developed skincare products has surged. Modern consumers are not only looking for effective products but also those that are safe, sustainable, and ethically produced. This shift has driven African beauty founders to innovate and adapt traditional ingredients using contemporary scientific methods, creating products that resonate with today’s discerning customers, and brands like Uncover Skincare are a prime example.

“We do not just release products. They go through a series of testing, where we work with focus groups before releasing the products into the market” Jade Oyateru, a co-founder of Uncover Skincare, says to BeautyMatter. Dubbed the "K-Beauty of Africa," Uncover Skincare secured a $I million funding round in 2023, which enabled them to grow their business. Based in Kenya, one of East Africa’s beauty hotspots, and launched in beauty frontiering countries like Nigeria, Uncover Skincare scours through African countries and villages for local ingredients like shea and argan, which is sent to South Korea where all production is done, harnessing its technology and formulating science-backed products for its consumers. “This has come from the need to fully provide a solution for the modern day customer,” Sneha Mehta, co-founder of the brand, tells BeautyMatter.

Products from Uncover Skincare include Argan Hydrating Moisturizer, which contains indigenous ingredients like argan oil and moringa, developed to provide a moisturizing effect to the skin. For this product for example, the Korean lab Uncover Skincare works with incorporates argan oil into the product’s oil phase, alongside emollients like squalane and shea butter. Together, these ingredients synergistically seal in moisture and prevent transepidermal water loss, which enhances the product’s antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

“Our Korean lab is at the forefront of skincare technology as it is able to carefully select the right combination of ingredients that complement each other and support a well-designed delivery system to achieve optimal skin results,” Mehta continues. Innovations like this have spread across the beauty industry in Africa.

Another prominent example is the transformation of manketti oil. Beauty brands like the Ghanaian-British eponymous Charlotte Mensah, have pioneered the refinement of manketti oil by the use of nanoemulsion technology, which reduces the oil droplets to nanoscale, allowing for better penetration and more efficient delivery of nutrients. Combining it with other active ingredients such as jojoba oils, tea tree oils, and lavender, creates high-performance haircare products. “Manketti oil is a heritage product in Africa and is over 6,000 years old,” Mensah says to BeautyMatter. “As Black people and POC with curly hair are placing a demand in the market that appeals to the hair texture, it made sense for us as a salon and haircare brand to formulate a product,” she continues.

“This rise in science-backed and well-researched and innovative beauty products in Africa is also being fueled by collaborations between beauty brands and research institutions,” Sola George Ojo, R&D formulation chemist, tells BeautyMatter. Ojo is the founder and Chief Researcher at the beauty research laboratory, the Lola Valor Company. She has worked with Procter & Gamble at an R&D capacity, and with PZ Cussons—consumer goods company and home to brands like Carex and Imperial Leather—where she led the R&D department as manager of the African franchises. “Beauty brands are seeing a surge in demand for efficacious products and are understanding that these partnerships with research institutions are crucial for the development of new formulations that maximize the potential of indigenous ingredients,” Ojo says. “By conducting clinical trials and laboratory tests, brands can substantiate the claims of their products, building consumer trust and credibility,” she continues, noting that while testing and trials have been around for a while, their emphasis in this market is newer.

Beyond the innovation of these beauty products to improve on their  efficacy and appeal to customer demands, brands are also innovating on texture and smell of products. Local ingredients like shea butter, for example, in its raw and unrefined state can be very greasy and sometimes too heavy especially on the hair. “Besides the greasiness, customers also sometimes find the smell to be unappealing,” Mensah says. “What we have therefore done is whip our manketti products to be somewhat thin and introduce flavorful products for a nicer smell,” she adds. By subjecting manketti oil to rigorous testing and quality control, Charlotte Mensah is ensuring that its products meet international standards and appeal to a global audience. Now, the company possesses a range of haircare products like the Manketti Oil Shampoo, Manketti Hair Oil, Manketti Salt Scrub, and a host of others. Charlotte Mensah is now on platforms like SpaceNK.

Innovation in packaging and marketing has further propelled the success of African beauty brands. With a growing emphasis on sustainability, many brands are opting for eco-friendly packaging solutions that reduce environmental impact. Even color usage comes into play, as brands are packaging products that would be appealing to their customers. “Our products are now clearly packed in brightly colored packs, as we see that it clearly defines our customers and audience,” Mehta says. “Besides, the rise of niche markets within the beauty industry has provided African brands with opportunities to cater to specific consumer needs,” enjoins Ojo. “Brands are now working with research institutions and scientists to develop products for a specific need and consumer,” she continues.

The success of African beauty brands in innovating local indigenous ingredients is a testament to the continent’s rich cultural heritage and entrepreneurial spirit. By blending traditional knowledge with scientific innovation, these brands are creating products that not only meet the demands of modern consumers, but also celebrate the continent’s natural bounty. As African beauty founders continue to explore new ways to enhance their formulations and reach a global audience, the future of the industry looks promising, with Africa positioned at the forefront of the next wave of beauty innovation.